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  • Bounty Hunter (PNI) IB series

    IB-100, IB-200 & IB-300

    Hi all, here is small contribution to the vintage section.

    This series is still hot for me, especially in heavily mineralized soils.
    I started to make a sort of compendium about everything around the detectors, but noticed that I may have to pass through the forum first to make it really complete (and understandable).

    So the first part will be a presention of the series itself, with original advertising stuff in found on the web.

    Next parts are already in work if not finished, I’ll start them if there is enough feedback showing that there is some interest:
    part 2: discussion in the schematic section for the back engineered PCB
    part 3: discussion in the coil section for eventually improving the coil
    part 4: discussion about maybe modifications

    back to part 1:


    I – Units

    The IB series from Bounty Hunter – formerly PNI (Pacific Northwest Instruments) are all based upon the same PCB.
    The basic differences between the units consist on additional trim pots, switches, vu-meter or jack.
    All the coils have the same specs.
    I won’t add more comments about description as the following original advertisement is really complete and the claims revealed to be true as far as I can say. (Although the claim concerning space technology maybe outdated.)

    (picture 1)

    IB-100
    The very basic version:

    (picture 2)
    (picture 3)

    IB-200
    The better choice. I have seen different units. Some with a 3.5 mm phono jack and only one tuning knob. Some with a 6.35 mm phono jack and coarse & fine tuning. I suspect the first version having been produced at the Klamath Falls, Oregon assembly line, the second being from Phoenix, Arizona assembly line. The vu-meter is a bit smaller than the ones used for the IB-300.

    (picture 4)

    IB-200 unit from Klamath Falls, Oregon, with small 3.5 mm jack and only one tuning pot (coarse):

    (picture 5)

    IB-200 unit from Pheonix, Arizona, with 6.35 mm jack, and additional fine tuning pot

    (picture 6)

    IB-300
    The luxury version:

    (picture 7)

    (picture 8 )

    (picture 9)
    Attached Files

  • #2
    user manual

    complete user manual for the IB series
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      restoring & repairing

      The information below is based upon the restoring of some 8 or 9 units, all IB-200 or IB-300.

      Following a letter I sent to Bounty Hunter in early 2003, I got the reply that Bounty Hunter does not service anymore any of these units, they are discontinued. A phone call resulted in the additional information that BH does not have any technical information or blueprints which might be of use. Although I got a name and an address for an external after sale services, I never got a reply from that service, despite several emails for more information about servicing.

      In the following years, I dissected two detectors and one coil. They did not suffer at all, as all of them were already lost and were not even good anymore for mice feeding. May those units rest in peace… or live eternally as spare parts!

      First modification to be done (IB-300 only):

      - solder out the mercury switch (glass bulb with fluid metal) fixed inside and near the speaker, shortcut both wires (do not forget to isolate the shortcut wires)
      o Reason: mercury is poisonous (neuro-toxic)
      o If the glass bulb gets destroyed for some reason (and it may), the detector will be contaminated with the mercury sticking on metal parts. As you cannot remove all parts of the mercury, the remaining part will evaporate slowly and will remain a risk.
      o Deposit the soldered out mercury switch at a chemical waste recycler. You don’t need that part, really. Even if the ASD function is disabled, you eliminate a serious mercury poisoning risk.
      o Note: Some Compass Yukon units have a similar switch inside, the same applies there.

      Other problems solved:

      Full PCB pictures, schematics and part list are here:
      http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18519

      - My detector does not work at all, please help me!
      o Check the battery clip and replace it if corroded.
      o Check the battery wires, they often break inside the connector or near the PCB, solder or replace them.
      o Open the box, check if there are broken wires. Most break near the pots and PCB or near the coil connector. If yes, solder them.
      o It may also be the internal trimpot that has been deregulated (continue reading).

      - My detector lies on the table in front of me and seems to work (the meter needle tilts when metal is put under the coil. BUT, I don’t get any sound out of it, please help me! (IB-300 only)
      o I bet the detector had the ASD function being enabled. The ASD function then has disabled the loudspeaker. Tilt the coil downwards, set the detector vertical (not horizontal as on your table) and try again with a piece of metal under the coil. Or disable the ASD function while switching to NORM.

      - My detector sometimes works and sometimes not at all.
      Please read the 2 first questions above, the same applies here. Whether it is the ASD function or it is a broken wire that sometimes gets contact and sometimes has not.

      - I have my detector in my hand, coil down, it works in some way (meter needle moves), but it does not give any sound at all.
      o Check/replace T11, T12 and/or T13
      o verify if T12 heats (there may be a shortcut somewhere)
      o anyway it is somewhere a problem with the audio block.


      - T12 heats
      o verify shortcuts near speaker jack and loudspeaker
      o replace diode D3 (original is 4001) by a 4007)
      o verify IC/s, it may be one of them that fried (reason unknown)

      - The meter tilts full right (with or without metal near the coil), but there is no sound to be heard.
      o replace diode D3 (original is 4001) by a 4007.
      o if problem persists: check/replace IC’s

      - There is a continuous sound, without target near the coil.
      o try adjusting internal trimpot (on PCB)
      § first mark with a pen the original position (it mostly is somewhere between 11 and 1 o’clock)
      § move wheel slowly a bit to the right or left until sound stops, adjust coarse tune pot to middle position, adjust fine tune pot to full left, set sensitivity pot at 9 o’clock, adjust internal trim pot again until faint sound is heard again, move a hair width back until sound vanishes again, check with coarse pot if you get a sound.
      o verify/replace T8, T9 and T10

      - The background noise (humming) raises or falls by its own and sensibility is affected too:
      o This is mostly normal, the Germanium diodes inside are sensible to temperature drops (or rises) by only 1 or 2 degrees, for example if you moved the detector from warm inside to cold outdoor. You only have to adjust your fine tuning pot.
      o BUT: This may also be due to the old electrolytic capacitors. Replace them by new ones. This is the only replacement of components I really recommend. Replacing other components may result in odd behaviour of your detector.

      BEWARE:
      - Replacing the original components with new components of the same nominal value may result in a complete change of the behaviour of the metal detector. Resistors should be carbon where they are by origin. Caps should be ceramic, exception made for some electrolytic caps.
      - Replacing wires: keep original wires if possible. Rewiring the detector with different wire and/or other lengths of wire makes the detector behave quite different. If you do so anyway, tuning until it works again may take some time...
      - Replacing the shielded cable between PCB and coil connector will change considerably the target response and quality of the detector. It is not recommended changing this cable. DO NOT shorten it!!!

      - Checking transistors: Hfe value of transistors should always be above 250 for best performance. 150 is just OK, but start looking for some new old stock.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by cyclops View Post
        Other problems solved:

        Full PCB pictures, schematics and part list are here:
        http://www.geotech1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18519

        When you click the link, there is no schematic at the other end.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for posting all this. When I get the site revamped (over the holidays?) I'll put it all in a good place.

          Comment


          • #6
            Carl, that would be great! Thank you in advance!

            Porcluvr: sorry, I may have used the wrong expression, I meant the PCB drawings (Sprint) when using "schematics", now I realize that the schematic is... well, yes, the "schematic" (can't find any other expression) .

            cyclops

            Comment

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